The Medium and the Message

Every outbreak has its Typhoid Mary. If Christy Campbell has it right, the Typhoid Mary of the phylloxera epidemic that laid waste to Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century was a well-meaning American identified only as “M. Carle.” In his book The Botanist and the Vintner, Campbell recounts that in 1862 Carle shipped an assortment of American grapevines to one M. Borty, who tended a vineyard in the hamlet of Roquemaure on the banks of the Rhône. The experiment did not end well:

The young immigrants went cheerfully into the warming soil, and seemed to prosper. The following summer, in a vineyard at the village of Pujaut, perched on a plateau of dry, pebbly soil a few kilometers southwest of Roquemaure, something strange started to happen. A cluster of vines began to show curious symptoms. The leaves rapidly turned yellowy, the edges reddened, the blush spread and, in an eerily accelerated autumn, by August the foliage had dried up completely and dropped. . . . By 1864 Borty’s own Grenache and Alicante vines were shriveling, while some native vines on a patch of sandy soil seemed mysteriously unaffected. The American imports were healthier than ever.

The culprit was an insect that fed on the roots of the American vines. Accustomed to the insect, they had evolved to coexist with it. The analogy to Typhoid Mary is more than superficially apropos: Mary had become such a promiscuous contagion in the first place because she carried the fever but never got sick herself. But unlike Typhoid Mary, the phylloxera insect would not be quarantined and spent the next several decades expanding the circumference of its devastation outward from the Rhône to envelop France and much of the rest of Europe. Maps of the outbreak have a certain conquistador quality to them not unlike maps charting the expansion of the Roman Empire.

Europe’s many varieties of vitis vinifera could no longer grow in the bug-infested soils. Their American cousins lived but the wine they produced was plainly inferior. History credits Jules-Émile Planchon, the “botanist” of Campbell’s title, for devising the remedy to the crisis. The remedy fits the classic definition of a kludge. Shoots of European vinifera vines were grafted onto American roots—the process entails literally taping the two together. The plant thus concocted proceeded to produce the classic European varieties of grapes on a secure foundation of phylloxera-resistant American roots.

But like any kludge, it has some side effects. Oenologists and winemakers who have worked with both types of vine report that the grafted plants don’t live as long and have a propensity both for higher yields and higher alcohol levels, among other defects. Since low yields from old vines are universally regarded as the most important components of the recipe for great wine, these are serious problems.

Yet the nineteenth-century kludge remains the state of the art. One might think it would behoove oenologists to devise a genetic treatment for phylloxera and thus allow vitis vinifera to stand on its own legs, but anything associated with “GMO” is anathema to technophobic Europeans. So grafting persists. And that’s where Campbell’s account ends.

But that’s where another story begins.

Anyone who has learned to appreciate wine develops a sense of how fluid it is over time. The wine you fall in love with one day will taste different with a few years in the bottle, and its next vintage will be altogether different still. Like Buddha, wine teaches that nothing is permanent. Everything changes. And everything dies. A wine cellar embodies the human compulsion to stand athwart history yelling Stop. It offers the consolation that good things can literally be bottled up to be opened and re-lived when one craves a remembrance of things past. It is impossible to do this without developing a fixation on experiencing history in the most vivid way possible—touching it, smelling it, drinking it in.

But if your taste for history impels you to wonder what the great wines of the past tasted like, the wines made today won’t tell you much. Simply put, they don’t make ’em like they used to. As Burgundy authority Allen Meadows recently told Grape Radio:

A lot of people ask whether or not prephylloxera wines, . . . are those wines different, and I believe they are quite different, but it’s mostly a textural aspect. . . . There is a concentration and a mouthfeel to nineteenth-century Burgundy that I don’t think exists today.

Meadows attributes the difference to the use of inferior, higher-yielding clones in replanted vineyards. But while the relationship between sheer concentration and low-yielding vines is clear, I am not as convinced as Meadows that the differences he observes in mouthfeel and texture can be attributed to yields or clonal selection. Fortunately, this is a theory one can test without spending thousands of dollars per bottle on nineteenth-century wines. There remain a select number of vineyards where ungrafted vines survive. Most are scattered in random pockets of the world that phylloxera never touched—in South America, or the island of Cyprus, for example—but the ones that interest me most are those in classic regions that mysteriously survived the pandemic, or whose proprietors took the risk of planting own-rooted vinifera while knowing they might succumb at any time.

From what I have tasted of these wines, they do have a mouthfeel and texture that is profoundly different from the mass of modern wines, which suggests to me that the difference lies not in clonal selection or winemaking practices but in the basest raw material, the root itself and its ungrafted connection to the vine. Pertinent to this—bear with me here—is an observation that Paul Johnson made about the masterpieces of Vermeer:

We are totally convinced of the existence, close to us, of the people and objects we see, and this appears to have been achieved not so much by brushwork as by magic, as if the paint invisibly floated onto the canvas like snow, then dissolved into it. The painting which perhaps epitomises this extraordinary gift of Vermeer’s (for it is a gift of genius rather than a mere skill) is the tiny Girl with the Red Hat (Washington, National Gallery), where the sensuousness and liquidity of the illusion is so strong as to draw viewers close to the painting to the point where they become dizzy.

The distinctive mouthfeel and texture rendered by ungrafted vines is perfectly analogous to this—including the observation that no amount of technical skill standing alone can impart it. The key point is that they have an uncanny ability to render the attributes of wine while leaving the medium of wine nearly invisible. It isn’t the concentration that’s remarkable, but the noiseless definition, purity, and grace.

Unfortunately, the market does not attach much value to this. A phrase like “Vieilles Vignes” on a label has a certain amount of cachet, but very few consumers take note of the taglines “Pie Franco” or “Franc de Pied,” signifying own-rooted vines. The fact that even the most serious oenophiles are not on the lookout for such wines makes it difficult to keep track of where they exist. But I am confident that once consumers begin tasting these wines and become attentive to the characteristics that differentiate them, demand will build until more and more producers take the risk—or maybe even invest in a twenty-first century solution to this nineteenth century plague.

PRE-PHYLLOXERA AND VINIFERA-ROOTED VINEYARDS IN EUROPE, NORTH AMERICA, AND OCEANIA

France, Champagne
Bollinger, Champagne “Vielles Vignes Françaises”
Tarlant, Champagne “La Vigne d’Antan” (1962) more

France, Loire
Bernard Baudry, Chinon Franc de Pied
Charles Joguet, Chinon Varennes du Grand Clos Franc de Pied (1986) more
Pierre & Catherine Breton, Bourgueil Franc de Pied
Les Caillous du Paradis, Loir-et-Cher “Racines” *
Chateau de Chasseloir, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine “Cuvee de Ceps Centenaires”
Domaine de la Charmoise (Henry Marionnet), Jardin de la France “Provignage” cépage romorantin vigne pré-phylloxérique (1800s)
Domaine de la Charmoise (Henry Marionnet), Touraine “Vinifera” gamay
Domaine de la Charmoise (Henry Marionnet), Touraine “Vinifera” sauvignon
Domaine de Montrieux (Emile Hérédia), Coteaux du Vendômois *
Domaine de Montrieux (Emile Hérédia), “Le Verre des Poètes” * pinot d’aunis
Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fumé “Astéroide”
Thierry Puzelat, Vin de Table Français romorantin *

France, Bourgogne
Philippe Charlopin, Bourgogne Franc de Pied (2001)

France, Rhône
André Perret, Collines Rhodaniennes Franc de Pied marsanne
André Perret, Collines Rhodaniennes Franc de Pied syrah
Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage coming soon? (2007) more

France, Bordeaux
Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan *

France, Pays Basque
Domaine Etxegaraya, Irouléguy Cuvée Lehengoa *

France, Catalonia
Domaine Ferrer-Ribière, VDP des Côtes Catalanes “Empreinte du Temps” carignane

Italy, Piemonte
Alfieri, San Germano pinot nero (c.1835) more
Cappellano, Barolo [Gabutti] Otin Fiorin Pie Franco-Michet (1989)
Marcarini, “Boschi de Berri” dolcetto d’Alba
Cozzo Mario, Vigna Pregliasco dolcetto di Dogliani (1986) more

Italy, Valle d’Aosta
D.O.C. Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle prié blanc more & more

Italy, Toscana
Lisini, “Prefilossero” more

Italy, Veneto
Serego Alighieri, molinara

Italy, Campania
Cantina del Taburno, “Bue Apis” aglianico del Taburno more
La Sibilla, Campi Flegrei falanghina
La Sibilla, Campi Flegrei piedirosso

Italy, Sicilia
Gurrida, “Victory” more
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Guardiola (c.1850) more
Frank Cornelissen, Etna “Magma” (c.1890)

Italy, Sardegna
D.O.C. Carignano del Sulcis

Spain, País Vasco
Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina “Rubentis” hondarrabi zuri video

Spain, Castilla y León
Garciarevalo, “Casamaro Blanco” verdelho
Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Bierzo “Viñademoya” mencia more
Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Bierzo “Viñademoya” Leiros mencia more
Bodegas Naia (Viña Sila), Rueda “Naiades” verdejo
Bodega Numanthia, “Numanthia” Toro tempranillo
Bodega Numanthia, “Termanthia” Toro tempranillo
Pasil, Rueda Pi Franco verdejo
Bodegas Tardencuba, “Autor” tempranillo
Telmo Rodríguez, “G” Pago la Jara tempranillo
Bodegas Valpiculata, “Valpiculata” Toro tempranillo
Bodegas Valpiculata, “Puertas Novas” Toro tempranillo
Viñas del Cenit, Vino de la Tierra de Zamora “Cenit” tempranillo
Viñas del Cenit, Vino de la Tierra de Zamora “Triton” tempranillo
Viñas del Cenit, Vino de la Tierra de Zamora “Venta Mazzaron” tempranillo
Viñedos Nieva, Rueda Pie Franco verdejo

Spain, Jumilla
Bodegas Olivares, “Altos de la Hoya” monastrell
Casa Castillo, Pie Franco monastrell

Spain, Yecla
Bodegas La Purísima, Yecla “Trapío” monastrell
Bodegas Castano, “Solanera” monastrell * [+ cabernet]
Bodegas Castano, “Dulce” monastrell

Spain, Galicia
Do Ferreiro, Rías Baixas Cepas Vellas albariño

Spain, La Mancha
Bodegas Vitis Terrarum, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla tempranillo
Bodegas Vitis Terrarum, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla cabernet sauvignon

Spain, Ribero del Duero
Dominio de Atauta, tempranillo
Dominio de Atauta, La Mala tempranillo
Dominio de Atauta, Valdegatiles tempranillo
Atalaya de Golban, tempranillo
Bodegas Gormaz, “Viña Gormaz” tempranillo

Portugal
Quinta do Noval, Porto “Nacional”
Quinta do Feital, “Auratus” alvarinho, trajadura *
Luis Pato, Quinta do Ribeirinho Pé Franco baga

Germany, Mosel
Joh. Jos. Christoffel, Urziger Würzgarten riesling
Clemens Busch, Pundericher Marienburg “Fahrlay Terrassen” riesling
Clüsserath-Weiler, Trittenheimer Fährfels riesling
Heymann-Lowenstein, “Schieferterrassen” riesling
Dr. Loosen, Bernkasteler Lay riesling more
Dr. Loosen, Erdener Prälat riesling more
Dr. Loosen, Erdener Treppchen riesling more
Dr. Loosen, Graacher Himmelreich riesling more
Dr. Loosen, Urziger Würzgarten riesling more
Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr riesling more
Lubentiushof, Gondorfer Gans riesling
Alfred Merkelbach, Erdener Treppchen riesling
Alfred Merkelbach, Kinheimer Rosenberg riesling
Alfred Merkelbach, Urziger Würzgarten riesling
Markus Molitor, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr riesling *
Schmitges, Erdener Treppchen riesling
Carl Schmitt-Wagner, Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg riesling (1896)
Gunther Steinmetz, [Mühlheimer Sonnenlay] Alte Reben riesling
Wein-Erbhof Stein, St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen riesling
Wein-Erbhof Stein, Klosterkammer riesling
Wein-Erbhof Stein, Himmelreich riesling
Wein-Erbhof Stein, Alfer Hölle riesling

Germany, Saar
Peter Lauer, Ayler Kupp “Senior” Faß 6 riesling * more
St. Urbans-Hof, Wiltinger [Schlangengraben] riesling
Van Volxem, Wiltinger Gottesfuß Alte Reben riesling
Von Othegraven, Kanzemer Altenberg “Ungrafted Vines” riesling
Von Othegraven, Kanzemer Altenberg Alte Reben riesling
Weinhof Herrenberg, [Saarfeilser Marienberg] Alte Reben riesling

Germany, Ruwer
Erben von Beulwitz, Kaseler Nies’chen riesling *

Austria, Kremstal
Meinhard Forstreiter, Hollenburger Tabor grüner veltliner (c.1900) more

Lebanon
Chateau Musar, Bekáa Valley blanc

New Zealand
Felton Road, pinot noir *

Australia, Victoria
Tahbilk, Nagambie Lakes “1860 Vines” shiraz (1860)

Australia, Barossa
Hewitson, Old Garden mourvèdre (1853)
Henschke, Eden Valley Hill of Grace Vineyard shiraz (1860s) more
Henschke, Eden Valley Mount Edelstone shiraz (1912) more
Cirillo, Barossa Valley “1850 Old Vine” grenache (1850)

Australia, Clare Valley
Kilikanoon, Attunga Vineyard “1865” shiraz (1865)

California, Paso Robles
Adelaida Cellars, Hoffman Mountain Ranch Estate Vineyard pinot noir
Castoro Cellars, Blind Faith Vineyard Paso Robles (c.1990) * more
Castoro Cellars, Cobble Creek Vineyard Paso Robles (c.1970 & 1991) more
Castoro Cellars, Dos Viñas Vineyard Paso Robles (c.1980) more
Castoro Cellars, Hog Heaven Vineyard Paso Robles (c.1986) more

California, Central Coast
Arcadian, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard chardonnay, pinot noir (1973) more
Belle Glos, Clarke & Telephone Vineyard pinot noir (c. 1971) more
Calera Wine Co., Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan pinot noir (1984) more
Calera Wine Co., Mt. Harlan chardonnay (1984) more
Calera Wine Co., Mt. Harlan viognier (1989) * more
De Tierra, Silacci Vineyard Monterey pinot noir
Fess Parker, Santa Barbara County “Big Easy” syrah *
DeRose, Cienega Valley zinfandel
Pisoni, [Elias Block] “Estate” pinot noir * more
Talley, Rincon Vineyard chardonnay, pinot noir * more
Talley, Rosemary’s Vineyard pinot noir *

California, North Coast
Cabot Vineyards, Old Mill Vineyard syrah, zinfandel (1998-99) more
Cabot Vineyards, Aria’s Vineyard cabernet, merlot, syrah (2003) more
Cabot Vineyards, Reed’s Vineyard syrah
Turley, Duarte Vineyard zinfandel

California, Sierra Foothills
Clos Saron, Home Vineyard pinot noir
Clos Saron, “Black Pearl”
Clos Saron, “Carte Blanche”
Clos Saron, “Heart of Stone” syrah
Renaissance, Renaissance Vineyard (1975-1981)

California, Santa Cruz Mountains
Kathryn Kennedy, “Estate” cabernet more
Varner, Spring Ridge Vineyard–Home Block chardonnay (1980)
Varner, Spring Ridge Vineyard–Amphitheater Block chardonnay (1980)

Oregon
ANA Vineyards, [Weber Vineyard] pinot noir (1976)
Archery Summit, Arcus Estate pinot noir
Beaux Frères, Beaux Frères Vineyard pinot noir *
Bethel Heights, Seven Springs Vineyard pinot noir (1989) more
Brick House Vineyards, Cuvée de Tonnelier pinot noir
St. Innocent, Brick House Vineyard pinot noir more
Ankeny Vineyard Larmer Block
Elton Vineyard pinot noir (1983) more
Meredith Mitchell Vineyard pinot noir (1988) more
Nysa Vineyard pinot noir (1990) more
Wahle Vineyard pinot noir (1974) more

* combines grafted and ungrafted vines.